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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.